My Hikes in Switzerland

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Lavertezzo to Cognera in the Valle Verzasca

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

May 13 - Lavertezzo to Cognera hike. On the edge of the mountain!

Taking advantage of good weather today, Rick and I took the train and bus (actually, bus-train-train-bus) to the town of Lavertezzo, in Valley Verzasca, which is a valley that branches out from near Locarno. We have been here before a number of times, and it is one of our favorite places – it’s very magical! Since we’ve been here before and had taken many pictures previously, I didn’t drag along my camera. Hmmm, never do that in Switzerland! Fortunately I had my iPhone, so the pictures you see here are from the phone – not bad, but not the best.

We started out by just taking a relaxing walk along the river, which is so blue-green. There is a great path that follows the length of the river – in Lavertezzo you get over the river by crossing a bridge that looks like it’s from Hansel and Gretel. It was built in Roman times – and still there! All throughout this area (and all of Ticino for that matter) there are very old stone houses. One house that we passed along the river had a date of 1761. There was a lady still living there, taking care of her garden.

Along the river we found a great rock perch in the sun to have our lunch – sandwiches we picked up in the morning before heading out. It became a bit cloudy, and since the weather report said there was a chance of rain, we walked back to the town – better to stay nearby. Once back at the town, it was sunny again and we weren’t ready to go back home! We decided to hike up to one of the little “towns” along the mountainside. We had hiked up there our first time here 9 years ago.

We obviously followed a little different path, which brought us to a road which kept leading around to the back of the mountain. We kept going because we wanted to know what was there, for a paved road to have been built. I did not know of any other town there. Along this road we found just a few things: A pulley system and cart to carry goods over the gorge where another river was running into the Verzasca River. You find these in lots of places, since there was no other way to get goods to some of these remote homes. We also came across a helicopter landing pad, and then a house down by the river behind the mountain. A lot of road built for practically nothing! But at the end of this road we found a stone path leading uphill which had a sign indicating “Cognera 10 minutes”.

Swiss paths are quite accurate when they give the time needed to reach a destination. We hiked up this stone path – I mean an elaborate stone path – a lot of work went into making it – until we came to an idyllic group of old stone houses in a small clearing and an little stream running through it. This was Cognera. We saw a woman overseeing a couple of guys doing some outside work by her house – obviously the equipment was brought up by helicopter that must have used that helicopter landing pad! This little settlement was so removed from everything. It’s difficult to describe the sense of amazement when you take time to just sit there and look at all the mountains and how high up we were. Actually, we weren’t really super high up, but from the view we saw, it was high, and our legs told us we had hiked up high! You can see the route we took if you look up Cognera, Switzerland on Google Maps/Earth. You’ll see the road heading to the back of the mountain and the little hamlet above at the end of the road. Totally cool!

There was another path indicating the way back down to Lavertezzo – 30 minutes. We headed down this path, but much more frightening!!! The entire path was carved out of the side of the mountain and laid with rock. It was about 3-5 feet wide and dropped off into nothing, no rail, nada. Water was trickling down the mountain here and there which made for numerous wet areas. We were fortunate that God had placed a dry rock here and there so we could make our way without stepping into water. That would have been dangerous, making it slippery, and if you slip off the side….. The hike was slow and tedious. We finally came out in a farmer’s field, filled with stone walls and terraces. And there was the farmer! We stopped to talk to him. He said the stone houses and terraces have been there for hundreds of years – he really didn’t know exactly how old they were. But the fascinating thing he told us was that at one time the hamlet of Cognera was inhabited year-round (now it is just summer vacation homes). He said the children who lived there hiked the path down to Lavertezzo every day to go to school! I just can’t imagine that when it’s wet or winter!

We eventually made it over to the original town we thought we were headed to – the one we saw 9 years ago. It’s called Sambugaro, and you can see that on Google maps too. Of course it’s an old stone village, but we both felt that much work had been done to renovate the buildings and it really looked beautiful!

We ended the afternoon with a beer at a restaurant along the river. The buses only run a few times a day at this time of year, so we had 1 1/2 hours until the next bus. Exhausted doesn’t describe how we felt. My whole body felt like I was hit by a truck, but it was worth every step and every ache and pain. It was truly a hike I will never forget!!!!!!!!!

Verzasca river where we had our lunch.

In the puddles on the rocks - tadpoles!

These signs are all over - the river is extremely dangerous. There are parts which entice people to swim, but the currents are so dangerous. There are deaths here every year.

Bridge from Roman times

Looking down on Lavertezzo from a meadow full of spring flowers

Hamlet of Verzöö, on our way up.

One of the pulley systems to carry goods across the gorge.

Helicopter Pad along the road

Hamlet of Cognera

Me in Cognera!


Of course each of these hamlets had running water for the inhabitants. It's hard to see, but the "box" in the center of the picture is an artesian well. Notice the solar panel on the roof on the left!

Rick on the path between Cognera and Lavertezzo

This is the ledge we were walking on!!!! It really drops off on the left.

Still on the path between Cognera and Lavertezzo

The farmer's field and the stone terraces. You can see another little hamlet down by the river in the middle left of the picture.

A little "street" in Sambugaro.

Sentiero delle Olive - Castagnola to Gandria

Friday, May 10, 2013

May 9 - The Sentiero delle Olivi

Today was a holiday in Switzerland, so as usual, everything is closed (except for a few places like restaurants). It was a nice day, so Rick and I decided to take the bus to the town of Ruvigliana, which is on Monte Bré – just a short distance from us. From Ruvigliana we made our way down the mountainside, until we came to Castagnola. There we began a hike down the “Sentiero delle Olivi” which ends in the town of Gandria down the coast.

In the pictures below, take note of the garage we saw along the way. It was an open garage, like a carport (you can see the front end of a car on the right). It was open on the other side to get the view of the lake and mountains, with also a cut-out in the ceiling. The floor was perfectly clean. And this was just the garage! I can’t imagine what the house must have looked like – we can only see the rooftop of the house, since it’s on the mountainside – the road and garage are above and the house is below. I’d like to ring the door bell and ask if I can camp in their garage…. J

Since we began in Castagnola, our hike was downhill or flat. At one point the path hugs the cliffs along the lake. There are a number of homes and a couple of hotels along this path, with no access to a road. You either have to hike there or take a boat. We also stumbled upon the Lido San Domenico, a small park with a café, locker rooms, and a swim area. We never knew this existed! It was a perfect place to stop and enjoy the view and have a cappuccino.

A little further down the path there was a hotel which had a terrace over the water where people were having lunch. Another hidden gem that had escaped us during our year stay here (and I thought I had discovered everything!) Our entire hike from Castagnola to Gandria took 1 ½ hours, which included our cappuccino stop. We arrived in Gandria just in time to take the boat back to Lugano.

View from the path between Ruvigliana and Castagnola

The amazing GARAGE with a view and sun roof. The flat area just out from the garage is the roof of the house.

At the Lido San Domenico along the Sentiero delle Olivi

My favorite view in Gandria, from the dock as we waiting for our boat.

Rick waiting for our boat

Gandria from the boat

Lugano from the boat. Monte Bre is on the right. All the houses up and down the right side of the picture on the mountain are Ruvigliana and Castagnola.

Davesco, Cadro, Soragno - near Lugano

Friday, April 26, 2013

April 23-24. More sun, time for more hikes in old towns

On Tuesday evening Rick and I were meeting our friends, Roberto and Giovanna, for a drink late in the afternoon. We walked along the Lugano-Cadro-Dino old train path up to Soragno, where they would meet us in their car. We headed out a little earlier to get more walking in, and we checked out the old nucleus of the town of Soragno. The first recorded history of this town was in 1335. One house had a date on it from the 1700's. We came upon an old wash pool, where they met to wash clothes and get water. During the year we lived here, we had only come upon one of these, so it was a real treat to see! It's part of an artesian well, so there is always water running into the basin.

Along another old path we found an old tree in which someone had done a carving of Mary. It never ceases to amaze me how many surprises we find no matter what street we walk down!

Our friends Roberto and Giovanna brought us to a town further into and up the valley called Villa Luganese. It also had a wonderful ancient center. We enjoyed some wine, bread and meats outside at a Grotto. A grotto, which literally means a cave in Italian, is a rustic restaurant, usually serving homemade food. Many towns have at least one grotto. They tend to also be very picturesque. I'm sorry I didn't take a picture! I promise I will next time.

On Wednesday morning Rick and I headed out in the same direction, since we wanted to see the old center of the next town, Davesco. There, we found another old wash center. From Davesco we walked to the beginning of the next town called Cadro, where we stopped at a cafe/restaurant for a drink outside. This was a long walk, and we decided to walk home too, instead of taking the bus. My body is still aching from this long walk! Phew! We are trying to enjoy the outdoors as much as we can these few days, since rain is in the forcast for the entire week after that. :-(

This evening I took pictures out our kitchen window again. I know I already posted a similar picture, but the 3 dimensional view I see is so beautiful, so I keep trying to capture it, although it will never be like in real life. Hopefully you can see what I mean - I think the light was right at the moment I took the picture.

Rick in front of the wash basins in Soragno. Notice the old stone floor.

Me by the wash basin in Soragno

See the water coming out of the face?


Carving right from the living tree. In Soragno.

Zoomed in from our kitchen window... the church in Porza on the other side of the valley - and then look beyond this town... there is another valley behind it, and we can see the town of Arosio on the mountainside back in the distance.

Another zoomed in shot - just because I love it!

The washbasin in Davesco.

Morcote, Switzerland and Lugano River walk

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

May 1 - River walk and quaint town of Morcote

May 1st is a national holiday here in Switzerland (and also Italy). Last night Rick and I were trying to figure out what to do, since everything is closed. Weather predictions were 100% rain, but when we woke up early this morning, the clouds were breaking and we were seeing blue sky. We quickly ate breakfast and went out for a hike, since we didn't know how long it would last. Well, we were lucky today!!!!

We first walked down to the main river flowing through Lugano - the Cassarate, which of course was gushing and would make a good river rafting trip! We went all the way down to the mouth of the river into Lake Lugano. Then we headed through the main botanical park in Lugano - Parco Ciani, heading for downtown Lugano to have some cappuccino. It was such a beautiful morning, and since no one was working, it was so quiet! Fortunately by 9:30am we found a cafe just opening (only restaurants open on the holidays) along the lakefront and enjoyed our cappuccino.

The weather was surprisingly still beautiful, so after our coffee we hopped on a bus - the stop was right there, headed to Morcote. Morcote is an old, quaint town on a steep slope into Lake Lugano - further south, just across from Italy. There is a large section along the lake of medieval arcades which cover the sidewalk, where we knew there are several restaurants. It's a great place to have lunch - if it rains we are protected, yet still enjoying the outside.

After arriving, we first went hiking through the town, which is a maze of steps that wind up and down the slope, between many medieval stone homes. There are several churches along the way and we climbed to the church at the top. Again, the wisteria growing everywhere really added to the charm - and also the perfum of the town!

We had a relaxing lunch under the arcades - there were only a couple of brief showers. All in all the rain held out! After lunch we took a walk along the waterfront. This can be tricky at times because there is not a sidewalk in all areas because it is so narrow, and only 1 car can fit on the road. Cars passing each other is tricky. Because this is a flat road along the lakefront, on a holiday there were many cyclists enjoying the day.

A great day after all!!! I didn't think we would have such a nice day, and again I only had my iPhone, but it did come to the rescue in order for me to take this pictures. :-)

A canopy of trees along the walk next to the Cassarate River through Lugano. These walls hold the river in its place!

Our walk through Parco Ciani

A tranquil Lake Lugano from Parco Ciani

Tucked between two homes - The Captain's Tower, from 1239!

Beginning of the arcades in Morcote

Climbing the steps in Morcote. Beautiful wisteria!

View of the lake through the wisteria. On the far side of the lake is Porto Ceresio, Italy

More wisteria on this path! Rooftops of old Morcote below.

The church at the top!

We also found this old church. On the right is it closed off - there are many old frescos inside. But interestingly, the stone on the left was probably like bleachers for the church!